It’s January in Havana, and after leaving 13 degrees Farenheit at home, we think 85 degrees F in Havana is delightful! But, apparently, the locals say it’s too hot! It’s supposed to be hovering in the 70s with a nice breeze. The breeze is there, and it is humid, but we’re happy!
Our second day in Havana, after another scrumptious breakfast at the hotel breakfast brunch, begins with a lesson in Cuban music history at a lovely room in the hotel. By the way, you need to like coffee in Cuba. There are several variations, as well as hot chocolate available. One morning we did try the Cuban coffee; small and strong. But, we enjoy our tea; and all was well as we always bring our own teabags and hot water was supplied in their coffee machines.
Our lecture this morning was “500 years of Cuban music in one hour” given by ALberto Fiaya. It was excellent. We both learned a great deal about the influences of African music on today’s Cuban music scene, as well as Spanish and even the role that classical music plays. Mr. Fiaya lectured, had slides, and played and sang for us. He mentioned several musicians of other countries, notably Gershwin of the US, who visited Cuba and was influenced by the music and cultures of Cuba. Sadly, we didn’t get a picture of him.
Unfortunately, I did not write down his position, but remember that he did teach at the University we visited. He related the music of Cuba to the cultures, past and present, and defined it. My favorite quote of his, “Preserving culture is like preserving life.” He spoke, as did other lecturers we listened to, frankly about slavery and its part in Cuban history. I thought, in fact, that the lectures and discussions we had in Cuba were much more forthright about slavery than any we have had in American regarding the subject. A couple of years ago when we went to Savannah, it didn’t matter how many times I asked docents and others about slaves in Savannah, the answer was always “house servants” or workers or some other word. I really appreciated the honest look at the terrible part slavery plays in our past and present world.
Apparently, the Presidente is still in our hotel and so we continue to have to walk to the other half of the hotel to use the elevator. We tried hard not to think too much about the fact that in an emergency we wondered if the staircase near our room would be accessible – we just made sure we knew where that stairway was on the other side!
After our lecture, we boarded the bus to visit Ruben Alpizar at his art studio in Havana. Up four flights of stairs where we met him, his wife and talked with him about his work for about an hour. His work is fascinating, comical, serious, and a bit irreverent – some of my favorite things about art.
From left to right: our Cuban Tour Guide, Luiz, the artist Ruben Alpizar and his wife in their studio.
I’m including here this interesting article I found after we returned about Cuban art and who buys it. Many Cubans cannot buy art from their own country; it’s too expensive. It’s a bit too complicated for me to explain here; but if you are interested, do some searching and you will find other articles about this issue as well as the effect of how the two monetary systems in place in Cuba make artists some of the most well-off folks in Cuba.
Article: Cuban Artists Look to US Collectors as New Source of Cash
We took pictures of several pieces of his work – Ruben Alpizar – this was my favorite.
Then, back on the bus and to the Plaza de Arms. A fascinating square, reminded me a great deal of the square in New Orleans where book sellers and artists all have their work side by side. A street artist did sketch Rich, but we weren’t interested. So our American guide purchased it – in retrospect, it’s a hard thing. We somehow felt obligated to buy something like that as it was offered; but also pushed into it. So I think if you travel alone to Cuba, keep your eyes out for this, but I think you may need to decide ahead of time whether to participate so to speak. In all of our travels, we are just not that interested in street types of gaining coins.
The center of the square — all around the outside were stalls of booksellers, artists and street hawkers.
We walked our way to a restaurant on O’Reilly Street! Yup, O’Reilly. It was a Italian type place, with that type food. To be honest, I don’t remember what I ate, I just recall it wasn’t my favorite meal to this point. The other group in the room got pizza, and hubby and I were wishing we could just have a slice. Lunches on this trip are generous. We were advised to eat lightly at lunch – I suggest it as well! And, you know what else there was: mojitos and music! The music was more cocktail lounge-ish, but Cuban, with a great sax player.
Our luncheon entertainment.
We then had some free time, so we took advantage of the Museo de Ciudad until it was time to meet Luiz and the bus. Really cool museum – I would have liked to have gone on a tour.
An object inside the Museo de Cuidad. We did not feel like paying the two pesos it cost to use our camera; so we only got this one. A very nice guard allowed us this one for free.
Home to a siesta, and a music lesson in the hotel with Projecto Jazz Cuba. They placed for about an hour, and we bought a CD.
Off to La Templete for dinner – an excellent meal with the best sangria of the week! (Yeah for no mojitos!)
I so wish I’d videoed our Luiz on the bus – always telling us more and more about Cuban history, politics, current events and the arts. He is an amazing tour guide.
Our delightful Cuban tour guide – Luiz!
Some car pictures for those of you who love the cars:
Car!
More cars!
Taxis
